Sunday, June 24, 2012

Fiber Processing and Dyeing Workshop - Part 1

After the great shearing a couple of weeks ago I decided to hold a workshop to introduce steps in processing and dyeing fiber.  This workshop was held through our Meetup.com group: http://www.meetup.com/The-Art-of-Spinning-from-Sheep-to-Yarn/

We had 7 of us filling the kitchen!  I greeted everyone at the door with their mask to put on since we had already started to mix dye.  We used 5 grams of Jacquard dye with a tsp of citric acid added into 16 oz of very hot water.  White vinegar can be used in place of the citric acid but be aware that the acid odor in your house will be strong!   http://www.dharmatrading.com/html/eng/3382162-aa.shtml is a good source for the citric acid as is http://www.amazon.com/Spicy-World-Citric-Acid-5-Pound/dp/B000OZFECU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1340547855&sr=8-1&keywords=citric+acid .  Also, it should be available locally through Whole Foods. 





So, with dyes mixed and in squirt bottles (label them with the color) we were ready to start weighing and washing fiber!  Whenever I process a fleece, I like to keep records of my pre-wash and post-wash (dry) weight of each fleece.  Generally you will have about a 30-40% reduction in your post-wash dry weight due to the loss of dirt, farm matter and lanolin that you have scoured out.  Alpaca and Llama do not have lanolin and do not generally require pre-wash before spinning.  I prefer to lightly scour my fiber as I like to spin with a little lanolin left in. 


Once weighed, you are ready to move to the washing bin.  I like to use bins that fit in my sink.  A 16 Qt. bin is about the right size.  Fill it half way with water as hot as you can draw from the tap.  Add about a 1/8 to 1/4 cup of Dawn dish soap (original blue only!) and gently blend in the soap with your gloved hands or a wooden spoon (dedicated to dyeing).  You want to avoid making bubbles.  The mixture is right when your fingers feel slightly slippery when rubbed together. 



At this time, I fill a second bucket with my rinse water (same hot temperature).  That was my rinse water will be the same temperature as the wash water by the time the wool has finished soaking. 


Now you are going to let the fiber take a gentle dunk into the bin.  Push it down until it is completely covered.  Do NOT agitate or it will felt!  At this point set the bin aside and let it soak for 20-30 minutes.  This allows the scales on the fiber to open up and release the dirt.  Do NOT let the water cool to room temperature, however, or you will risk having felt!

  

A word of caution!  Do NOT let fiber go down your drain when you dump out your wash or rinse water!!  You may want to dump the water outside!  If you do use your sink be sure to use the drain traps.

This is a good time to do a little cleanup around your work area.  If you are going to dye the fiber the same day you can get your work area covered with thick layers of newspaper and have a roll of paper towels readily available to clean up any accidental drips! 

If you are not dyeing the same day, go put your feet up and knit or keep them down and spin while you are waiting!  

After you have soaked the fiber for 20-30 minutes inspect it to see if it is as clean as you would like.  Remember that small bits of VM will drop out during carding and spinning.  Do not try to pick them out at this time or you risk felting (see the common theme here with gentle handling?).  Also, remember that you may have a fleece that has suntips that may appear as dirt but are not.  If you are happy with the cleaned fleece, lift it gently from the wash bin and squeeze the dirty water out.  Don't wring the fiber or it will felt!  Transfer the fiber to your rinse bin and let it again soak for 20-30 minutes.  Repeat the rinse if needed until your water is nearly clear.  Subsequent rinses must be done as close to the prior rinse water temperature as possible.  Just remember, you do not want to shock the fiber by going from hot to cold.  That is, unless you want felt!  

Once rinsed, squeeze out the excess water, place in an old towel and gently push on it with your hands or gently step on it to get out the excess water.  Some people like to use the spin cycle in the washing machine but you must watch it because if you forget and let water run into the washer tub you will have felt!  I occasionally use a salad spinner if I am doing a small amount.  

Lay the fiber out on a screen or other surfaces (I've used dedicated cookie racks in cold or rainy weather).  I was able to pick up my 4 screens for free on http://www.freecycle.org/  I rotate my fiber moving it gently (this is not the time to "pull it apart") a couple times during the day.  Depending on the weather it will take from 1 to 3 days to completely dry.  If it feels cool to the touch it is still damp! 

This fiber can then be packaged to prevent moths until you are ready to dye or spin.  Put it into a brown paper bag, roll the top folding the sides with an envelope fold.  Then use duct tape to securely cover all the seams.  Remember to take a small sample of the fiber, put into a small zip lock bag and tape to the outside of the bag.  Write on the bag so you know the type of fiber, amount (I weight before bagging), date and source of fiber.  Packaged this way, your fiber should safely store indefinitely.  But, hopefully you will use it soon!  

My next blog will be on dyeing the fiber, using acid dyes, microwaving the fiber, sun dyeing and kool aid dyeing.  

Happy spinning!

Thursday, June 14, 2012

Shearing The Flock


There are some opportunities that you just can't pass up.  One of my new spinners knew of this farmer in Garner, NC who was going to shear and dispose of the fleeces.  Of course, she leaped on the opportunity to pick up a few good fleeces, called me and asked if I could teach her how to skirt and bag as they sheared.  After several cancellations by the shearer the time was finally set for last evening. 

We were so glad that it was a moderately warm day (mid 80's) and not one of the scorchers that June can bring in the south.  After finding the farm and driving the last 1/2 mile on a potholed winding single lane dirt road up to the barn I was delighted to see the flock of sheep waiting in the holding area in the barn.  We had 3 of us to skirt and bag and a few children were there to help label and record the fleeces. 
Some of the sheep had been named by the owners daughter so we carefully recorded those for that "personal touch" to add to the fleece.

The shearers were from a couple hours away north of Winston Salem.  Dad and daughter team did a great job.  The daughter just graduated from High School.  When I asked her what she planned to do now that she had graduated she looked at me like I had 3 eyes and said, "Work the farm!!"   Well, duh, of course!  Silly me! 
 She was amazing in handling the sheep and we had very few second cuts in her fleeces.  Kudos to her! 


The Dad has been shearing 6 or 7 years.  Let me tell you how hard this work is!  The barn was very hot and over the 2 1/4 hours we were there the smells of suint, grease (raw lanolin) and other bodily fluids mingled heavy in the air increasing tenfold by the time we were packed up and ready to go. 

This little lamb lost it's Mom to mastitis shortly after it was born.  They tried to bottle feed but it would not take to the bottle.  It has done well on it's mash and now, at a month and half of age it is still thriving although she is small.  She kept us company in the skirting area of the barn and she was surprisingly pretty friendly.

We used dollar tree shower curtains to do the skirting on. It made a great space to lay out the fleece so we could determine how much needed to be skirted.   I have some video of that which I hope I can figure out how to add soon.  Each fleece was bagged, labeled and named if we knew the name of the sheep.  It's always nice having that personal touch of a name!  Deborah was the new spinner and she had brought her 3 grandchildren along.  They were such a big help recording the bags/names and being the runners to take the bags to the cars. 

This is my favorite.  Black Betty came in from another farm with 2 other sheep to join the shearing.  She is a Dorset yearling.  I bagged this fleece for myself.  I'm looking forward to making a nice sweater if I have enough fiber after processing it. 

Because the weather was not cooperative the night before and dumped tons of rain on the flock their fleeces were damp.  That meant having to take all the fleeces out of the bags when returning home and laying them out in the sunshine to dry before re-bagging and labeling them until they can be washed.  What a job!  I only brought home 3 of the Suffolk fleeces to dry.  Deborah is at camp this week so her friend took home the remaining fleeces to dry them.  Lucky her!

Once we can determine a time to meet I will be teaching Deborah how to process the fiber including washing, dyeing and carding. 

Back up the dusty road to take the drive home.  When returning home the first order of business was to get the fleeces out of their bags.  Then a good hot shower for me.  I think my hands will be soft for a month from all of the lanolin today!  

Needless to say, I didn't have to count sheep to fall asleep last night!
Three Dorset fleeces drying before final bagging



Black Betty drying
 Today I have some time to start washing Black Betty.  I have several projects ahead of spinning her but will probably try a little sample just to know how it will look.  It seems like a pretty soft fleece but if I find it a little coarse once spun she may be blended with some chestnut llama or brown alpaca that I have.  I will post how this goes.  

So, off to the wash bins I go!  Wish me luck!  

And a final BIG word...THANKS, Don, for the opportunity and for the fleeces!  You have a great flock and it was our pleasure to meet you.  We will enjoy many hours of spinning and knitting thanks to you!